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Art and Life
By Linda Tancs
You’ve heard the expression: which came first, the chicken or the egg? In a similar vein, does art imitate life or does life imitate art? Well, at Monet’s home and gardens at Giverny in France, the line between art and life is more like a blur. In fact, when you view the master impressionist’s abode in this village northwest of Paris, you’re likely to feel like you stumbled into one of his paintings. You won’t find any of his originals on the premises; you’ll need to visit d’Orsay, Marmottan or de l’Orangerie to see those. But you will find in his garden oasis the blooming water lillies he made so famous. The house will reopen in April for tours. From then until 1 November you can observe the changing cascade of color–from springlike pastels to the deep brilliant hues of autumn–that makes his artwork come to life. Less than an hour away from Paris, buy a packaged tour, drive or take the train to Vernon and then a bus or taxi ride will have you there in 10 minutes or so. No doubt the still beauty of the place will leave a lasting impression on you.
Jurassic Park in France
By Linda Tancs
High in the Jura Mountains of eastern France the sauropod reigned supreme. Just when you think its star would have faded, however, comes news of a discovery there of one of the largest dinosaur footprints (at almost five feet in diameter). Dated from the Late Jurassic period (the era taking its name from the Jura due to some prehistoric rocks there), the well-preserved prints are likely not the last we’re going to hear about the long-necked vegetarian that weighed anywhere from 33 to 44 tons. Perhaps this scientific discovery will invigorate tourism in the area–namely, the Jura Mountains Regional Natural Park, southwest of the mountain range on the French/Swiss border. Filled with a wide variety of flora and fauna, mountain forests, high altitude grassland, wooded meadows, peat bogs, lakes and deep valleys, you can traverse the area by hiking, mountain biking or even Nordic skiing. Who knows, you might even stumble upon some really big feet.
1300 Years in Normandy
By Linda Tancs
The motto of WASPs (Women Air Force Service Pilots) was “We live in the wind and the sand, and our eyes are on the stars.” That could equally apply to France’s Mont Saint Michel (Saint Michael’s Mount), a hauntingly beautiful rocky expanse between Normandy and Brittany whose granite apex hosts the Benedictine abbey started there in the 10th century. The worship of Saint Michael there, however, dates back to the year 708, making this holy site more than 1300 years old. As if that weren’t enough to distinguish it, the Mount is also one of the first locales to obtain a UNESCO World Heritage listing. The village lying beneath the abbey, ringed by a fortress, is built on sand but can withstand the constant assault of the highest tides in Europe. Its ebb and flow, described by Victor Hugo as being “à la vitesse d’un cheval au galop” (“as swift as a galloping horse”) is striking and quite a tourist draw. Take it all in at the North Tower of these medieval ramparts.
Picasso’s Castle Opens to Public
By Linda Tancs
Opening to the public for the first time this summer is Château de Vauvenargues, Picasso’s château near the Provençal town of Aix-en-Provence in the south of France. Nestled in the foothills of Mont Sainte-Victoire, the grand estate was purchased by Picasso in 1958–a fitting acquisition, given that the mountain playing host to this dwelling has been often depicted in paintings by Paul Cézanne, Picasso’s idol. Among the sites to be seen are the guardroom where Picasso’s body lay in state and five interior rooms, including the ground floor dining room and the master bedroom upstairs. The property will be open until 27 September, and tickets must be purchased in advance.
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Beaune Uncorked
By Linda Tancs
Winemaking is an ancient custom. In Beaune, the heart of France’s Burgundy wine industry, they’ve been at it since 300 AD. Practice makes perfect, as the saying goes. Will you agree? There are lots of places to taste the fruits of their vines to find out. At Patriarche Père et Fils, there are miles of cellars to peruse and a tasting of 13 or so wines. History buffs won’t want to miss Musée de la Vigne et du Vin (Burgundy Wine Museum), housed in the former private residence of the Dukes of Burgundy. The museum balances both past and present. You’ll see giant wine presses and a collection of traditional winemaking equipment as well as learn about the history of the Burgundy vineyards and wine. Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson said, “Wine is bottled poetry.” Surely the vintners in this little medieval French town would agree.
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Marie’s Garden
By Linda Tancs
On the outskirts of Paris lies the site of Château de Saint-Cloud. Once a royal palace built in 1572 and later occupied by Napoleon and Marie Antoinette, it was destroyed in the 1800s during the Franco-Prussian War. What remains, though, is a verdant complex comprising over 1100 acres filled with ten fountains, a French garden, an English garden and, of course, Marie Antoinette’s flower garden. Nice place for une pique-nique. Get there via Le Val d’Or or Saint-Cloud rail lines or the T2 Tramway. Bon appétit!
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Friday Night Fever
By Linda Tancs
“Laissez les bon temps rouler” (let the good times roll) takes on a new meaning in Paris on Friday nights. Beginning at 10 p.m. on Place Raoul Dautry in the 14th arrondissement the rolls of inline skates roar through the streets on a 3-hour tour of the city (weather permitting). The 18-mile route is not meant for the casual skater; the level of difficulty differs widely (think: Tour de France). The organization responsible for this endurance test, Pari-Roller, frequently changes the route; the trek for the week can be viewed on Thursdays. Think you’ve got the goods? Give it a roll.
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Old Stones and Recipes
By Linda Tancs
Forget the glitz and glamor of promotional travel writing. In the Bergerac region of the Dordogne in France, they call it like they see it–old stones and recipes. That sums up the food and lodging respite befitting a swashbuckling Cyrano at the 17th century Le Manoir du Grand Vignoble and its 3-star restaurant. There’s plenty of old stone in this western part of the Dordogne, on the northern bank of the Dordogne River. Just head for the old town–vieille ville–immediately north of the river to the 12th century cloister Maison de Vins de Bergerac. You’ll find their recipe for wine-making success at the exhibition housed there.
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New Culture in Paris
By Linda Tancs
At a mere 100 million euros, Paris has another cultural center–this one in the neighborhood of the high tech museums at la Villette. Known as le 104, this latest Parisian center of arts and culture promises to provide stability in an area where 70% of the inhabitants are on welfare. The inspiration for this latest cultural endeavor was Berlin’s Radialsytem, which opened in 2006.
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City of Chocolate
By Linda Tancs
Think “city of chocolate” and you’d probably wax nostalgic about those little seashell-shaped chocolate wonders from Belgium. But there’s more than one fine chocolatier vying for your attention in Europe. For instance, look further south and–voilà –you’ll find Bayonne, the chocolate capital of France. In the 1800s the first mechanical chocolate production facility in the country was built there. Situated near the Atlantic coast in the Basque region, Bayonne’s chocolate-making prowess made the big time in 1855 at the exposition in Paris, 412 miles away. Today, visitors are likely to enjoy one of the region’s specialties, chocolate (70% cacao) tinged with Piment d’Espelette, a locally grown red pepper that is often ground like paprika and used to infuse many dishes–including desserts, obviously. What an unusual combination of epicurean delights. L’embarras du choix, no doubt.
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